It’s a tough week when you have back to back reservations at Marble and Wombles – but I do this for you!
Marble is the collaboration of celebrity chef David Higgs (previously Rust en Vrede and the Saxon Hotel) and restaurateur Gary Kyriacou that opened in July this year. Located in the trendy Keyes Art Mile in Rosebank it takes up the whole top floor and features an open plan kitchen with live-fires that celebrate South Africa’s favourite cooking style. It is the place to see and be seen on the Joburg culinary scene at the moment.
Wombles is an African colonial styled restaurant that was started back in 1984 by the Barker family. Their executive chef, Nesberth Nhambura, has been with them 27 years and their manager, Graeme Marshall, is considered family. The restaurant was originally in Zimbabwe, then Parktown North, and since 2016, at Hobart Grove Centre in Bryanston.
Both pride themselves on their Afrocentricity and their meat, but it must be noted that Marble is chef-plated fine dining (think tasting menu but bigger portions) whereas Wombles is a high-end steak house (where you mix and match your meat and sides). That said, both have big reputations, waiting lists, and are priced to be dining experiences, so lets look at them head to head:
My bestie, Natalie, loves the finer things in life and is also very knowledgeable on all things foodie. We arrived as a table of four on Wednesday for her 33rd birthday dinner and left feeling privileged to know what all the fuss was about.
Marble Pros:
- The incredible space: It looks like something you might see in a movie that’s set in New York or LA and this makes you feel you are in for something special. You can’t help being taken aback on arrival by the lavish glass wine cellar, the unparalleled skyline view of Joburg, and the expanse of the 250 seater restaurant. The walls are floor to ceiling glass while the decor is simple and classy, incorporating local artists. The tables are a good distance apart from each other and the open plan kitchen adds to the drama of this theatre of food.
- The hot chef in view: We are told David Higgs is something of a food genius and thus to have him in your view, commanding the kitchen and personally overseeing your meal, makes you feel important by association.
- The bread and french fries: These require a special mention. The salted bread and perfect french fries demand banting be suspended.
Marble Cons:
- Service not yet flawless: Arriving at 6:35pm we waited 20 minutes for a drinks order at the bar (a bottle of wine, a beer, and a rock shandy). I also thought the bar music was too loud.
- Five minute power outage: This is Africa, I know.
- Price: It is steep e.g. Caesar Salad R145; Fillet R285; Wood Fired Beets (v) R195. They are, however, plated to perfection, served in perfect unison, and delicious to the last. The kitchen is clearly a well-oiled machine. Where they start going too far is charging R70 for a bottle of still water (we ignorantly sipped through two).
One cunning plan to see Marble would be to go for a sunset cocktail and experience the vibe and view in the safer economic climate of the bar snack menu.
I ate:
Starter: Soup (cauliflower and leek) R95
Main: Sirloin R265
Dessert: Chocolate Mousse R95
Drinks: Villiera Merlot R195/btl (Marble do not allow corkage) & large still water R70
I recommend:
Starter: Fried Prawns R165; Main: Rib-Eye R275: Dessert: Chocolate Mousse R95
To book:
Marble is open Monday to Sunday for lunch and dinner from 12 to 10pm. One can get a table for four a week or two in advance if you are flexible with days.
Call +27 10 594 5550 or mail reservations@marble.restaurant
Since Wombles opened its doors in Bryanston at the start of winter this year I have frequented their bar area (perching myself on a couch in front of a fireplace). It has been my go-to place for cosy red wine socialisation – often accompanied by their delicious biltong (R55) or eating from their abridged bar menu. On Thursday we had a formal dining room booking for Hayley and Shaun’s birthdays. We left feeling very full and well looked after.
Wombles Pros:
- Service: The effortless way the entire staff carries the responsibility of customer service is best in class. From the owner who told us the specials, to our waiter, Samuel, who ensured our wine glasses were always topped up, to every other member of staff you come in contact with. This is a team working together and creating a flawless end-to-end experience.
- The outside courtyard: This casual outside area is perfect for a pre or post dinner drink. Small wood fires make it comfy and give a lovely contrast to the formal dining room inside.
- Seasonal Veggies: These are complimentary with every meal. We were given butternut, peas, and baby onions. Adding two sides (R35 each) to this, onion rings and cream spinach (big enough for the three of us to share) gave us a smorgasbord of sides.
Wombles cons:
- The View: In contrast to Marble’s vista, Wombles overlooks a car park.
- Ribs: Shaun was hankering for these, but there are no ribs on the menu.
- …I can’t come up with anything else.
I ate:
Starter: Avocado Ritz R110
Main: 350g Rump R190 with Mushroom sauce R35
Dessert: Shared the complimentary Birthday dessert
Drinks: Aperol Spritz R60; Rupert & Rothschild Classique (we brought in for R100 Corkage) & large still water R28
I recommend:
Any of the steaks.
To book:
Wombles is open Monday to Friday for lunch and dinner and Saturday for dinner. Closed Sundays.
One can get a table for four a week or two in advance. To book call: 011 463 8558 or mail wombles@wombles.co.za
Conclusion:
Everyone should go to Marble once (maybe twice if you have overseas guests coming to town and you’re pretty confident they will foot the bill). Will Joburg have the appetite to frequent this large lavish establishment for long enough to make their hefty investment worthwhile? Time and the profit on still water will tell. Wombles has already stood the test of time. Marble made me feel fashionable while Wombles made me feel at home. Both have bar areas you can visit without a reservation. Both have incredible food and completely different world class dining experiences that should make Joburg proud. Both make you feel prosperous which helps you part with (quite a bit of) your hard earned money at the end of the meal.
